2 June 2016 (fine, warm, afternoon shower) 80km

The day dawned overcast and mild as our washing hanging limply off our handlebars with not a breath of wind to help dry it out.  We usually do a small bit of washing at each camp and dry it on the top of our bags as we ride, which works great in the hot weather we’ve been having.  Not sure what the weather will do today.

After a nice hot shower each, in deserted bathrooms (there’s only one other tent and a campervan here) we tucked into breakfast while uploading the blog. But first things first and the morning constitutional. Now, I’m not a big guy….except where it counts of course….but here I was sitting on this seat, with my knees literally around my chin, I kid you not!  Went for another wander to see the Basilica and fortress up close this time. 

Got more great shots and were amazed at how big this building really is.  Strolled all around the outside and on the fortress ramparts overlooking the township. Then decided to take a glimpse at the inside.  As we were going in, a tour party of pilgrims were making their way down into the crypt. Usually they charge to see the depths of the church, so we tacked ourselves onto the pilgrims, but were promptly hauled up by the woman at the cash desk. Pleaded ignorant of course and even though we’d come all the way from New Zealand and then cycled about a thousand kms to get here, we weren’t considered to be pilgrims….fancy that..?  The woman wasn’t impressed, so we turned to viewing the church itself.  It really is a magnificent structure and if I wasn’t already a baptised Heathen, I would have considered turning.  Little did we know, later in the day there would be a revelation.

Looking down at Esztergom

Back at camp we had things all sorted and ready for the off, so down the trail we rode. Can’t say the riding was brilliant, in fact, the cycle trails here are pretty much hit and miss with their signage, whereas the quality can go from hot mix one minute, to tree roots growing through the asphalt the next, giving an awful ride. These however are part of the Eurovelo cycle trails….and you get what you are given…when you can find them.  On the road for a spell down to catch the ferry to Szob.  Here we encountered two other cycling couples and were then joined by an Italian family who had been at our camp. Cycling to Budapest with two kids, nine and seven and after our ride into the city later in the day, there’s not a chance that we would have taken our kids on those roads….talk about deadly.

We were crossing a river 200 metres wide. When the ferryman asked for 1680 Florins, I thought he’d charged me for two others as well. Considering most ferries in Scandanavia that cross rivers are free, I was surprised to say the least. Once again on the opposite bank, still in Hungary, we had some good and bad cycle paths. Picked up some supplies for lunch and a bit further on, sat in a football teams dugout, chowing down.  It was shortly after when we were underway again that we noticed the stormclouds, which set in all the time in the afternoon. Riding only in shirt and shorts, we were comfortable for another few hours. As per usual around 4.30pm, the rainclouds hovering overhead, doused the way for about an hour, but nothing major.

We've been to so many churches, it had to happen......yes, Pete found God

Then it happened….that’s right people, we found God! And we heard a voice saying, buy an ice-cream, which we duly did. Who would have thought that whilst cycling in Hungary, we would have discovered his word, but we did, because it was written on the sign….the one with the towns name on it. I can tell you, it’s the closest I’ve ever been to God.

Ploughing on now and the signage for the tracks was all over the place, meaning few and far between. Asking non-stop for directions. Entered Budapest outskirts at 5.30pm, looking for a camp site on our map.  Riding between dangerous road and terrible cycleways.  No signs for campground, so asking locals every five minutes. We were directed down a road which led us to a very dodgy area of town. Full of drunks and druggies, weirdos and nutters. Not the kind of place you want to bring your wife. It was now 6.30pm, we had no idea where we were when we asked a girl called Reika, for directions. She was a rower and knew the club captain at the club right where we stood.  He wasn’t there but another guy charged us 5000 Florins to stay inside their locked gate facility for the night.  For less than that last night, we had a swimming pool and unlimited wifi, but we were in no position to begin hunting down another site.  So….here we sit….in our dome, contemplating our pilgrimage this morning, which never really got off the ground and our encounter with God.  You know, I think I feel slightly different tonight…..must be the lentils we had for tea.