Friday, 17 June 2016

16 June 2016 (sunny, cloudy, warm with late thunderstorms) 80km

Awake at 6.30am before eyes closed to reopen at 7.35am – a late start for us.  We purposely had put the tent between two cabins so it would not receive the early morning sunlight as we needed a good sleep.  The flysheet was soaking wet so we took that off and hung it up on a handy line to dry.  While I cycled to get breakfast from the supermarket, Pete packed up the inside of the tent.  
Pete has all his ducks in a row.....OCD or what?
So we ate breakfast while the tent and flysheet dried.  Then I had another crack at uploading the blog and the internet was much faster this morning.  I had two days’ worth to upload (it’s the photos that take the longest), so by the time I had finished that, the tent and flysheet were dry.  So we packed up and hit the road, firstly into Jicin Tourist Info to find out a bit more about these rocks.
The whole reason we had come to this area was that Pete had googled Ten Things you Must Do in Czech, and this was one of them.  We googled some images and thought that looks pretty cool and arranged our route to come here.  We cycled the 6km out to the rocks, which naturally were mostly uphill.  It was also very hot and so we were pretty sweaty when we got there.  We weren’t exactly sure how to get to these rocks as we saw several tracks leading into the hills and different parking areas, with signs we couldn’t read.  The uncertainty and the heat were putting Pete in a bit of a mood but eventually we found the right carpark.
We parked the bikes against a stone wall and had a guy approach us in a high vis vest.  He said something in Czech and we realised he was a parking attendant (it wasn’t that busy), but one of the words he said was ‘gratis’ and we understood that – he was prepared to let us park there for free.  So we headed for the entry gate which rang warning bells and sure enough, you had to pay.  Old tightwad Pete was not keen, even though it was only $5NZ each!  I pointed out that the Czechs generally don’t even charge you to walk round their castles so it must be pretty impressive.  He shot back with “But it’s an extra $1.70 for the map!”  When you’re on the road, you do tend to watch every penny and try and get by as cheaply as you can, but when I said to him that we had ridden an extra day just to get here, not to mention the 6km uphill this morning from Jicin, he begrudgingly agreed to part with the cash.  He was glad he did within two minutes of walking through the gates.  
Julia celebrates the fact that she got Pete to part with some cash!

What a spectacular sight and the aura of those mammoth rocks, well, it was like walking through nature’s own cathedral.  We spent the best part of three hours walking round and through and up into those rocks – it was fantastic.  


The Czechs have done it so well.  No namby-pamby stay behind the safe fence for these guys.  It was up stone steps into crevices, under massive rocks wedged between two other massive rocks, through rock caves, around another corner for another incredible vista.  
We can’t speak highly enough of this place and if you are going to Prague, put it on your list as it’s not that far away.  And it is certainly worth $5NZ each!
Prachov Rocks

So we emerged from the rocks at 2pm, wishing we had lunch with us.  The restaurant fare didn’t look too appetising (all fried stuff) so we made do with an ice-cream and shared a coke before hitting the road.  We had quite a hilly ride to get out of the Jicin rocks area to the town of Sobotka where we were finally able to buy some lunch and a little further down the road we found a nice shady place to eat it.  By the time we’d finished it was 4pm and we jumped on our bikes heading south.  We had a camp picked out and hopefully a nice quiet ride to it.  Well it was a fantastic ride from here to Mcely – nice flat, smooth surface, traffic-free roads…..perfect.  
The riding is great and life is good.
A castle ruin we passed on our way
However at Mcely, the signage was a bit amiss and we asked an old guy the way to Milovice where the campground was….and he put us wrong.  Well, kind of.  He gave us the motorist’s route which took us in a more roundabout way.  However, the plus side to this was the road he put us on was fantastic to start with and traffic free and fast.  There was a thunderstorm building in the actual direction we wanted to go in and this way skirted us around it….to a point.  That point was about 10km from our planned campground when we found a bus stop with shelter and decided to take cover before the deluge hit.
The wind hit and the lightning started and big fat raindrops started to fall.  The wind whistled through the gap in the back of the shelter and the bottom, so we tucked ourselves on the seat in the corner to wait it out.  Checked our directions on the computer and wrote up the blog while we waited.  After about half an hour when the wind had died down and the downpour that looked so imminent hadn’t eventuated, we decided to make a run for it.  So began a mad dash into the eye of the storm, or so it appeared.  This massive black cloud with lightning flashes directly ahead of us and with what appeared to be rays of light streaking out from the bottom of the cloud – we’ve never seen anything like it.
Uh-oh.  Trying to outrun this beast and Pete was not happy when I asked him to stop so I could take a photo.

We came upon the next village about 3km down the road and made a right turn to the next village of Cochovice.  The rain was starting and we spied an excellent bus stop under some trees so made a beeline for this.  By this time it was 8.30pm so we thought we may as well cook up some dinner, so we busted out the tuna, baked beans and pasta so we were at least fed.  The wind really got going but we were tucked well away from it and considered our options.  This was a small village, no pension (or b and b).  We wondered about setting up the tent behind the bus stop, but seeing as it was Perspex, there was no privacy and the whole village would know we were there.  We also considered just sleeping in the bus stop but at 8.50pm, not one, but four people came to catch the bus!  We had not seen another soul for the hour we had been there and then these people come out of nowhere.  Were they going home or would they be coming back to this bus stop later on in the night?  So we put our plastic bags on our panniers and set off once more directly into the path of the storm, or so it appeared.  By now it was getting quite dark, so we were very glad the roads were extremely quiet.  On our ride to the next village we didn’t see one other car, however a deer darted out straight in front of us.  It made us aware of this danger and to keep the speed down.  It was hard to keep an eye out for deer though when we were continually distracted by the lightning show around us.  We were in fact in between three thunderstorms and the lightning was nearly continuous.  Sheet and fork lightning, but strangely enough no rain and no thunder.  We made good time and encountered very little traffic and finally made it to Malevice at 9.30pm.  The streets were deserted and not a sign for the campground to be found.  Pete spied a sign for the sportstadion and so we ventured down a gravel track in complete darkness.  Usually all their sports grounds are fenced off and locked but this one was a small local club and unfenced luckily.  We went to the far side of the clubrooms where hallelujah!, they had an overhang on the deck – the perfect place to pitch our leaky tent on a night that threatened to bring with it a lot of rain and possibly wind.

We wasted no time in putting up the tent inner, careful to keep low so as not to set off the sensor light and gratefully climbed into our sleeping bags at 10.30pm, knowing we would have to be up early to beat the dog-walkers in the morning.  I sensed that Pete was quietly congratulating himself having restored order to the wallet in not having to shell out for a campground for the night.

No comments:

Post a Comment