24 May (rain and cold) 85km

About 9.30pm last night the Chinese tent started leaking after three hours of solid rain, thunder and lightning.  We had also inadvertently left a piece of groundsheet protruding out from one side of the tent and it was the side the rain was coming from, so we had the water coming at us from above and below.  Pete dashed out in the rain to fix the groundsheet situation but it was too little, too late.  We used my one small towel to mop up what damage we could and started thinking about options.

Our non-smiley camp owner had gone home and we were the only people here, which was great because if we needed to we could bunk down in the toilet block.  However, he has a bit of an outdoor cantina here so when the rain eased off about 9.45pm, we went to check that out – it was perfect!  We moved a few picnic tables out of the way and chose a nice dry patch of concrete to set the tent up on.  We draped the sodden flysheet over one of the picnic tables to dry off as we wouldn’t need it, being undercover.  There was a fluorescent light on so we could see what we were doing but there were also these massive thick vinyl curtains that we could pull around the whole area, which we did.  It kept out the cold and the weather.  We brought the bikes inside as well and luxuriated in all the dry space we had, when for three hours we’d been huddled up in the tent just waiting for the rain to come and get us.

As it turned out we had a good night’s sleep, despite the light staying on until 3am and woke at 5am when it was already light outside.  We got up then as we wanted to put everything back how it was before the camp owner got back.  Had to laugh, no shower at this camp but ten picnic tables, all with heavy glass ashtrays – what priorities!

This place was a godsend!

Pete then cycled back up the hill to the supermarket about 6.30am, hoping it was open.  We have 40km or so before we get back into Austria and we don’t hold out much hope of finding a supermarket after leaving Cesky Krumlov.  So thought we’d better get supplies and get our bodies fuelled up in a nice dry place before we hit the road.

The temperature has dropped unbelievably.  Yesterday there were parts of the day that must have been hitting 30C when we were even sweating in the shade – this morning I reckon we’d be lucky to have 10C.  I’m sitting here typing in all my wet weather gear just to stay warm!

Pete here. I arrived at the Kaufland supermarket at 6.36am, to find it didn’t open until 7am. I’d figured that would be the case, so while Julia was feeling the cold back at camp, I had wind as well to contend with.  Shopping done and back to Ju.  Breakfast for us is really important….as is lunch…and dinner and all those other snacks in between.  After munching down our first sitting of the day, we tidied up our gear and were just getting set to leave, when smiley camp owner arrives, but he was too caught up in his own miserable world to acknowledge us.  Took the main road south, hoping for a nice run and that’s what we got, not much traffic on the hot mix surface at all.  Passed through Vetrni, what a hole. I’d say it was industrial, but only a few of the industries that were there were operating.  Everything looked very run down and the people looked worn.

The down side of Czechia - this sight was all too common

The ride was taking us alongside the Vitaya river, a lovely cruise, watching huge amounts of schoolkids canoeing through the clear water. Czech has a huge amount of kayakers and it’s a common sight.  

A castle we passed today

Travelled for two hours before the rain set in, but when it did, that was it for the day.  85 kms, the majority dripping with water.  Had secured some plastic 60 litre bags, which served their purpose and kept the gear dry, but no helping us.  Eating morning tea in Rozmberk n Vitavou (the name almost longer than the town itself) outside a shop undercover, we hoped for a respite from the heavens, but it was not to be.

Rozmberk n Vitavou - charming in parts but also with a neglected feel

Plastic bags come out to keep the gear dry

The lovely quiet road we had been following through the valley, ended at Brod Vyssni where not only did the traffic pick up, but so did the hills, or should I say hill.  One bloody great climb of 8 km out of Czechia into Austria.  On the plus side, it helped keep us warm!

On we pushed, but the rain pushed harder. Our jackets were soaked but our polarfleeces repelled the worst of it, but we were managing to keep our legs dry, although Ju’s feet got wet. Nothing is worse than cycling in wet gear, especially shoes. You very quickly begin to get cold. As we approached the Austrian border, the traffic increased and the border shops, casinos, booze outlets and petrol stations, plus nik nak outlets, were there for all wanting to browse.  Went through the Czech side, no one there of course and then reached a full on Austrian border building from days gone by. This structure is massive, as is an accompanying old building. The border control had the undercover drive through and traffic lights, plus admin section all there, after years without passport checks. 

A great place for lunch under the big canopy on the left.

For us it was the dream, out of the rain, lunch stop. If it had been later in the day, we’d have contemplated setting up the tent. Wonder what the authorities would have thought of that. Still, we’re game for anything, like the time we hung up our washing to dry, in a crematorium, whist we ate lunch.

Not only was the rain increasing, but, you guessed it, so were the hills and so was the traffic.  By the time we reached Bad Leonfelden, the traffic was heavy and people had their headlights on to be seen in this weather.  We decided it was just too dodgy to stay on this road so using the handy compass we took the first road that veered South-East as we didn’t particularly want to go to Linz, which was where the busy road was heading.  It was a bit hilly at first and still had a few cars flying by until we reached Reichernau and then found a bicycle sign heading to Gallneukirchen.  This was a dream run being either flat or downhill for a very scenic 12km ride through a beautiful valley, even in the rain.

Hoped to find a McDonalds (for free wifi) or a tourist info but there were no signs for either.  Pulled up outside the Rathaus where they often have Tourist Info’s, but no….so, very nicely asked a lady going in if she knew where it was. Ignored me first off…remember, we look like something the cat dragged in. So I ask again and when she fobs me off I yell the question at her. One of the very few people who have not been inclined to help. To get out of the rain, Julia suggests we stop at a café and use their internet, whilst we drink.  Still pissing down, can’t get wetter, so why not. Julia, as always goes in and asks if they have wifi, before we commit. Out she comes smiling and in we go ….soaking! She orders a coffee, me a pils lager. Both drinks arrive at the table as she is failing to secure wifi. Asks the Indian guy she’d asked in the first place. Oh no no we no have internet here. ‘But you told me you did’ she replies.  No no we have none. ‘Right, we’re leaving’ she says. Up she gets and out the door. Up I get to follow and am told I must pay for the drinks. ‘You told my wife you had internet, that was the prerequisite ‘ says I. ‘Not understand’ he fires back. ‘Well understand this pal…you’re not getting any money from me’

‘I’m not paying for those drinks out of my own money’ (suddenly with a very sound grasp of the English language) says he…….’Then give em to someone who wants them’…..and we were off. Out the door, on our bikes, imagining police sirens and road blocks out of town.  We’d had more than enough of roads, which, this afternoon, had become very busy and with the rain increasing, visibility was getting worse. So, onto a cycle path heading for the Donau and after about 5km cycling through villages and countryside we felt far enough away from Gallneukirchen to stop and examine an info board to see if there was any mention of a campground.  A very helpful man told us there were none for at least 20kms, but the guest house opposite where we were standing, was nice and reasonably priced.  Mmm tough decision – do we plod on in the persistent rain with aching joints and backsides, hoping to find a camp or freecamp where we can pitch our tent undercover as we’re not sure how it would stand up to this weather, or do we go and enquire at the guesthouse.  Julia went in and it seems we are paying 66 Euros for the night, including breakfast. The day has been long and wet and my suffering wife deserves some comfort, so here we stay.

We cooked up our Indonesian Hot Pot for dinner in our room, had showers, washed clothes etc and hung them up to dry in this very warm and spacious room.    Then we hooked into the internet to let our family know we were still alive and then to upload three days of blog.  Had nearly finished the 22^nd May entry when the internet cuts out.  I guess you must only get half an hour or an hour – not sure how long we were on it but it didn’t seem like long.  Managed to check emails and get a facebook message to each of the kids before the internet cut out but that was it.  Hopefully we’ll get another half hour tomorrow.  At least we don’t have to worry about getting wet tonight.